Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Elephant Company - Reflections on a Book

I'm sitting in a hotel room in the United States writing this blog about reading a book set in Burma before and during WWII and thinking about my past year Malaysia and an upcoming cycle tour of SE Asia. The book, Elephant Company by Vicki Constantine Croke, is the perfect way to relax. This book is about James Howard Williams, a British war hero who worked with elephants in the teak business in Burma, recognized their intelligence, communicated with them, and used them successfully for the Allies during WWII.

Being able to relate to a book enhances it's enjoyment and my experiences in Malaysia are no exception. The descriptions of Jim Walker's expatriate experiences, his observations and anecdotes about elephants, and the impact of the jungle setting on work and life capture eloquently capture some of the feelings I've had.

Although Jim traveled many years before wifi and Boeing 777 Dreamliners, he did leave behind his family and friends for work in a post in the jungle. The description of the bland tins of British food carried by the elephants to the remote posts to sustain the British workers until their next trip home reminds me of the trips to Cold Storage or Ampang grocers in KL for canned chili beans and stale tortilla chips. Eventually, Jim soon discovers that the local food is much better than canned rations and hires a local cook to prepare gourmet meals.  Yes, on occasion, I've hired a cook to teach me to cook and yes, given a choice, I generally prefer the local cuisine at the restaurants to a can of chili beans.

Another reason I like this book is the elephants. My one 30 minute elephant ride was enough to "hook me" on a love for these giant creatures. I laughed my entire ride as the elephant snorted, blew hot air - kisses perhaps? -, ruffled his ears, and was, I thought, was especially fond of me and had a great sense of humor.  Before reading this book, I thought I'd projected these feelings on "my elephant", but after reading this book, I think the elephant really did "like me."

The descriptions of living in the jungle with it's heat, humidity, monsoon rains, mud, canopy of thick green vegetation, hills, roots, snakes and bugs, is easy to comprehend. Although we don't live "in the jungle" in a temporary house made of bamboo,  we have done enough hiking through dense, dark jungle trails, and biking in the heat, humidity and rain that I could relate to the struggles of the teak workers and soldiers. One thing that I'm glad I've never had to do it march to India as a war refugee for thousands of kilometers through the jungle and heat to escape Japanese soldiers nipping at my heels.

In conclusion, if you live, or think of living, in SE Asia, if you like non-fiction books with a hero and elephants, and/or  if you like reading about World War II, I highly recommend this book.










Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Ten Course Chinese Meal

We were recently invited to celebrate the 70th birthday of a grandfather and the 45th wedding anniversary of the same man's marriage. Although I had never met either of the grandparents, I'm never one to say "no" to a party/cultural experience especially when I teach three of his grandchildren.

At precisely 7:00 pm - we were exactly on time -  on Sunday night we arrived at an already-almost-full large banquet hall. 6 tables across by 12 tables deep by 10 guests per table means the four sons forked out a lot of money for this party. At the opposite end of the hall was a large stage with drums, a large keyboard, microphones and stands, and a giant picture of the guests of honor in their happily-married-for-45-years smiles.

We took our seats near the back with the other teachers from the school. Small talk and eating peanuts with chopsticks(easier for Eric than for me) occupied our time for only a few minutes, when the  master of ceremonies, a young women in a pale yellow dress, fitted at the waist, with a full skirt reminiscent of a 1950's frock minus the cashmere cardigan, completed with white patent leather shoes, welcomed us in Chinese.

The emcee then directed our attention to the back of the large hall, fanfare music began blaring on the loudspeaker. We all stood and clapped as the beaming couple processed down the center aisle, followed by the entourage of  four sons and their spouses and a gaggle of grandchildren. It was all quite formal and extravagant.

The first speaker was a national parliamentarian representing Kampung Jering, the name of this village, in Kuala Lumpur.

In answer to my question, yes, this event will be in the newspaper.

After a long Christian prayer in Chinese and a digital photo show on the large screen, the night's entertainment and a steady stream of food began. There was singing and classical Chinese dancing by the grandchildren, singing by the eldest son with the lyrics posted on the screen telling about how thankful he was for being born, having his diaper changed, and all the financial and spiritual support from his parents - all very showy and over-the-top from my perspective -  more dancing , more singing, and the presentation of large financial gifts on behalf of the parents from the sons to many local charities - I think there were at least 5 poster-sized checks and photos of the formal acceptances by the charities

In the middle of all this entertainment was food. Lots of it. Here are the courses I remember:

1. Fish soup
2. A large steaming bowl of fish- some I recognized like shrimp, scallops, sea cucumber (yes,can you believe I know this one, now) and cat fish. And much I don't recognize and probably don't want to know.
3. BBQ pork and steamed rice buns - I like this!
4. Stir fried vegetables.
5. A yam flavored birthday cake. Eric stabbed a piece with his chopstick and we shared it thinking this was the end of the meal.
6. Rice wine soup.
7. Whole steamed catfish (or some kind of freshwater fish that feeds in places I don't want to think about.)
8. Red bean soup that is purple and sweet.
9. Flaky thin pastry that tasted kind of like an apple strudel.
10. Ok, so I've lost count. Does the endless refills of beer count as a course?

Eric's non-existent-until-tonight Buddha belly had taken shape over his waste band, and I was silently applauding myself for wearing my Malaysian batik shapeless, non-binding tent dress.

We were thankful that the tradition of the number of courses of a traditional Chinese banquet has shrunk from 14 courses to tonight's 10.

And we were thankful that we got to attend such an event that, by Chinese culture, is required for 50th, 60th, 70th and up birthdays, and funded by the adult children.











Friday, July 18, 2014

Chicken Cutting Service

Bet the security guards got a laugh at me taking the photo!
It's Friday and I'm a little tired after a week of school.

 (Did I mention that there are no planning or prep periods?)

 Anyway, as I dragged myself into the grocery store on the way home with no shopping plan besides a hope that something "fresh" looking (and smelling) would jump out at me and say "Cook me," this poster appeared before my eyes.

At first glance I didn't absorb the words and kept trudging on towards the cash machine. Malaysian Ringletless (RM), I was hoping (and praying) that the ATM would be dispensing cash so I could go back to the store and find that special "something" for dinner.

A couple of seconds later, the words on the poster registered in my tired brain.

 Whole Chicken - Without Head or Feet - Cutting Service.

A smile tugged at my cheeks and I started chuckling. This simple poster, most likely never to be seen in the US, defines so many things...

- a culture where the words "whole chicken" really does mean the entire chicken including the head and feet.
- a hypermarket (local word for supermarket) that is trying to attract and keep foreign customers by removing the parts of the chicken that we consider extremely unappetizing.
- a "cutting service" where we can choose a "whole" chicken (without the head or feet today, of course) from a pile of ice and ask that it be chopped up with a meat cleaver into pieces of equal size complete with chunks of bone, slivers of wings, or pieces of backbone all conveniently and quickly chopped to be about the same size.

Anyway, getting back to the chicken feet....

Interestingly enough, chicken feet are a real delicacy over here (some students have even told me it's their favorite meal), so I'm guessing that this "Whole Chicken Cut Up" advertising promotion is a win-win for foreigners and locals alike.

The locals can enjoy the tasty crunch, crunch of the feet and claws, while the foreigners can savor the fat and calories of the legs, thighs and breasts.

I'm wondering, however, who gets to enjoy head. Come to think of it, maybe that really was a chicken beak floating in my noodles and broth a few weeks ago...

Bottom line - the poster helped me to end the week with a smile.